Clay County TN is the least most populated county in Tennessee. By coincidence, this is where The Brimstock Bluegrass Festival is held. We drove up there (it is on TN’s northern border with Kentucky) on progressively smaller roads. The countryside is more rolling hills than mountains, mostly limestone/shale/sandstone layers, badly distorted by continental drift. The instructions said to follow the road, until it became a gravel path, then you are there. True to the directions, we followed a winding road through a lovely valley and when the road gave out, there was the farmstead that is Brimstock. It is the most beautiful place; narrow winding, steep sided valley, flat meadow bottom land, river running through it. We pitched by the river in the shade of some trees (still not fully out, as we are still chasing the spring north). As the weekend progressed, the banks of the stream turned multicoloured as the wild flowers bloomed. Very, very pretty.
We had a great weekend as the weather was amazing and there were some good acts, a mix of local and national bands. Most impressive was Johnny Butten, who is actually English, but an excellent musician. He has moved to Minnesota and is making it as a bluegrass musician. There was also some brilliant clawhammer banjo playing from Phillip Steinmetz and His Sunny Tennesseans, nephew of ‘Old Grandpa Jones’ a famous Old Time Music player (who, for those of our readers in Florida, will be appearing at Palatka next year).
We really enjoyed meeting with some local lads and did some jamming over the weekend. The festival hosts, Garry and Dianne, were absolutely brilliant as they bent over backwards to make sure that we were OK and they worked hard to put on a great bluegrass weekend.
As we left on the Sunday, we were invited to stop off at the house to watch the Humming Birds. This was fascinating, it is the first time we had seen them.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Terry 's Cynical thought about Tourism
One of the problems I have noted with modern tourism is that many of the places that were famous for a specific function are now tourist traps . e.g. Broadway became famous because it was where talented performers and writers could go to be seen by record producers or A&R men. It used to be packed with people in the industry, doing their job. Now, because it is famous, it has become a tourist spot, so much so that performers now play for tourists and people from the industry are no longer seen there, so it has now lost its core function and is just another tourist package, almost like Disney. At least Disney does not disguise that it is simply a product of tourism.
This is a sad observation that we have made several times on our visits to places. The tourism industry brings in more revenue than the core function, so why not cash in on the tourists.
However, on a brighter note, Sally thinks that I am being too subjective and that the true function of Nashville does continue and needs, as it always has needed, tourists to fill the audiences.
This is a sad observation that we have made several times on our visits to places. The tourism industry brings in more revenue than the core function, so why not cash in on the tourists.
However, on a brighter note, Sally thinks that I am being too subjective and that the true function of Nashville does continue and needs, as it always has needed, tourists to fill the audiences.
Nashville
Today we descended upon Nashville to taste the musical delights of the area.
Oh! We couldn't find anywhere to park easily.
Once we had found a parking meter, we went to the visitors center to find out what we could see. After talking to four different Visitor Center staff, we eventually were told that handicapped do not need to pay on parking meters.
The attractions seemed to be quite pricey and fairly well spaced.
So we looked at the musical attractions and found that there are a lot of music venues, each with their own schedule.
We eventually worked out that there was actually nothing we wanted to see, though David Peterson was on in one venue it was not until 9.00 at night, too late for us old fogies.
So we settled on taking a trolley ride round the city, that was very interesting, taking us through the government district, then the Music Square, where all the record companies are, then down Broadway, where all the cafes are. It was very interesting to get some of the history.
After the trolley we had a meal at Demos, (Italian) then strolled up Broadway, going into Hard Rock Cafe, The Bluegrass Cafe and Tootsie's, to see the bands playing. Also went into Gursche's the guitar shop and looked at all the very expensive guitars. Looked being the operative word.
After that, we fought the traffic to get back to our campsite, built a fire and considered our plans for the weekend.
On reflection, I don't think I was over impressed with Nashville, though it was nice to see a whole lot of live music, you could also see a lot of no hopers trying very hard. Nashville may be well known, but it has had its five minutes of fame with us.
So we are packing up this morning and going off to a small bluegrass festival at Brimstock, about 80 miles north east of here.
Oh! We couldn't find anywhere to park easily.
Once we had found a parking meter, we went to the visitors center to find out what we could see. After talking to four different Visitor Center staff, we eventually were told that handicapped do not need to pay on parking meters.
The attractions seemed to be quite pricey and fairly well spaced.
So we looked at the musical attractions and found that there are a lot of music venues, each with their own schedule.
We eventually worked out that there was actually nothing we wanted to see, though David Peterson was on in one venue it was not until 9.00 at night, too late for us old fogies.
So we settled on taking a trolley ride round the city, that was very interesting, taking us through the government district, then the Music Square, where all the record companies are, then down Broadway, where all the cafes are. It was very interesting to get some of the history.
After the trolley we had a meal at Demos, (Italian) then strolled up Broadway, going into Hard Rock Cafe, The Bluegrass Cafe and Tootsie's, to see the bands playing. Also went into Gursche's the guitar shop and looked at all the very expensive guitars. Looked being the operative word.
After that, we fought the traffic to get back to our campsite, built a fire and considered our plans for the weekend.
On reflection, I don't think I was over impressed with Nashville, though it was nice to see a whole lot of live music, you could also see a lot of no hopers trying very hard. Nashville may be well known, but it has had its five minutes of fame with us.
So we are packing up this morning and going off to a small bluegrass festival at Brimstock, about 80 miles north east of here.
Sunday, April 19, 2009
An Evening at The Carter Family Fold
That brings us to Saturday, and our search for the origins of the Carter Family. We started the trip by having lunch at the Riverside Restaurant, an excellent seafood grill in Kingsport. Sally had a very nice jumbo (yummy) shrimp stuffed with crab meat, while I dived into a hamburger (no, not literally). We had a table on the patio overlooking the River Holsten. We then drove north over the state line into Virginia (another first for us), into the wilds of the Appalachian Mountains and sought out the place where the Carter Family lived and worked. A.P. Carter’s store still stands and the old homestead where he was born and raised has been moved to the same place. We took the long route to get there. Two valleys run side by side. Poor Valley is a dry limestone valley with high limestone ridges on either side (one of them is Clinch Mountain), with only a very small stream, but it had the railway (because it was straight). It was called Poor Valley, because everyone in it was poor. Parallel to it, is Little Valley, which has a big river which meanders quite incredibly in and out of rocky sandstone hills and outcrops. This valley had water, but is so twisty that you have to travel miles to get quite short distances. The Carters actually were raised in Little Valley, but moved over to Poor Valley when A.P. Carter started his general store. We really enjoyed motoring up the Little Valley, on a quiet road which hugged the river bank, then crossing into Poor Valley to get to Mace Springs, where the Carter Family Fold is.
As evening came on, the quiet country village started to fill and cars now lined the narrow country road. When the car park became full, people parked in adjoining fields. We went in to the show building and were immediately greeted by a couple of ladies I had met the previous evening. They waved aside my money and took us to seats they had reserved for us. Then began an evening of great bluegrass music by the Big Country Bluegrass Band. Most amazing of all was that as soon as the music started up, people streamed on to the concrete floor in front of the stage and began to dance. Most were wearing taps. What a great night. People came up to us and talked to us. There were kids all over the place, one woman even danced with her dog!! There was a food stand where we could buy BBQ pork sandwiches and Alison’s Homemade Potato Soup and crackers, amongst other things. Well, we had a great time. We were always conscious that we were in the heartland and capital city of mountain music. We drove home happy and tired.
Here is a great video of the evening on youtube
And also some pictures of our day
As evening came on, the quiet country village started to fill and cars now lined the narrow country road. When the car park became full, people parked in adjoining fields. We went in to the show building and were immediately greeted by a couple of ladies I had met the previous evening. They waved aside my money and took us to seats they had reserved for us. Then began an evening of great bluegrass music by the Big Country Bluegrass Band. Most amazing of all was that as soon as the music started up, people streamed on to the concrete floor in front of the stage and began to dance. Most were wearing taps. What a great night. People came up to us and talked to us. There were kids all over the place, one woman even danced with her dog!! There was a food stand where we could buy BBQ pork sandwiches and Alison’s Homemade Potato Soup and crackers, amongst other things. Well, we had a great time. We were always conscious that we were in the heartland and capital city of mountain music. We drove home happy and tired.
Here is a great video of the evening on youtube
And also some pictures of our day
Finding Music in Kingsport
We have tried to find as much music as we can on our trip and this area is no exception. We have found some really good music.
Scanning the internet, World Wide Bluegrass, a radio station, I happened to chat to someone from Kingsport, who happened to be in a band (The Fall Creek Band), who happened to be having a concert on the Thursday we arrived. So we went. It was a great evening, in the local Civic Hall. Run by volunteers. Three bands, The Ball Sisters, local, nice girls, voices were a bit soft, good fiddle player. The next band was The Next Best Thing, daughters of Rhonda Vincent, nice sound, good voices. They had some very good musicians - Dobro, banjo and guitar - all good leads. Very enjoyable performnce.
Lastly The Fall Creek Band, very nice sound, phenomenal 15 year old girl on fiddle and vocals. The guy I had spoken too on the internet was her Dad. He played guitar. We had a great evening. Also got invited to a jam session on the Friday evening, went to that, enjoyed it, though everyone was really good. It is held in an old stage coach station and boat dock. We were playing in the little cabin next to The Cabin that Daniel Boone grew up in. It was a very pretty place and very historic.
Scanning the internet, World Wide Bluegrass, a radio station, I happened to chat to someone from Kingsport, who happened to be in a band (The Fall Creek Band), who happened to be having a concert on the Thursday we arrived. So we went. It was a great evening, in the local Civic Hall. Run by volunteers. Three bands, The Ball Sisters, local, nice girls, voices were a bit soft, good fiddle player. The next band was The Next Best Thing, daughters of Rhonda Vincent, nice sound, good voices. They had some very good musicians - Dobro, banjo and guitar - all good leads. Very enjoyable performnce.
Lastly The Fall Creek Band, very nice sound, phenomenal 15 year old girl on fiddle and vocals. The guy I had spoken too on the internet was her Dad. He played guitar. We had a great evening. Also got invited to a jam session on the Friday evening, went to that, enjoyed it, though everyone was really good. It is held in an old stage coach station and boat dock. We were playing in the little cabin next to The Cabin that Daniel Boone grew up in. It was a very pretty place and very historic.
Almost out of Tennessee
We have now moved on to stay at Warrior's Path State Park, almost in the middle of Kingsport. It is a beautiful park and we have taken some very nice pictures of views, plants and animals, which are on our Picasa site
We have come here for 2 main reasons.
1. To find out more about the roots of bluegrass/country music
2. To see, what on Google Earth looks like, some amazing geology.
Kingsport is a large town/small city in the top right hand corner of Tennessee, not easy to get to. It is part of a trio of towns called The Tri-Cities, including Bristol and Johnson City.
Kingsport is tucked on the wrong side of the Appalachians from the more prosperous North Carolina, with its rich piedmont and coastal plain. However, on arriving here, we have found it to be an extremely interesting area. It is a communication gateway. It was the first area outside of the13 colonies to be settled and many pioneers came through here. It is home to Davy Crocket and Daniel Boone (close anyway). It was an important area in the war of independence, though it seems to have got off lightly in the civil war.
It was on one of the old Cherokee Indian pathways, hence the name of the State Park, Warriers Path. More recently it has become the recognised birthplace of Country music (and hence its offshoot of Bluegrass). It is an area rich in mountain music.
We have come here for 2 main reasons.
1. To find out more about the roots of bluegrass/country music
2. To see, what on Google Earth looks like, some amazing geology.
Kingsport is a large town/small city in the top right hand corner of Tennessee, not easy to get to. It is part of a trio of towns called The Tri-Cities, including Bristol and Johnson City.
Kingsport is tucked on the wrong side of the Appalachians from the more prosperous North Carolina, with its rich piedmont and coastal plain. However, on arriving here, we have found it to be an extremely interesting area. It is a communication gateway. It was the first area outside of the13 colonies to be settled and many pioneers came through here. It is home to Davy Crocket and Daniel Boone (close anyway). It was an important area in the war of independence, though it seems to have got off lightly in the civil war.
It was on one of the old Cherokee Indian pathways, hence the name of the State Park, Warriers Path. More recently it has become the recognised birthplace of Country music (and hence its offshoot of Bluegrass). It is an area rich in mountain music.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Jamming in Kodak
After a couple of quiet days in Pigeon Forge Sally and I were ready to meet up with our Internet Bluegrassers (see Sunday) for a jam. except they are nont bluegrassers, but play more Old Time, which in these parts is often called Mountain Music, or Country music, not to be confused with Country And Western Music. Anyway we followed the trusty GPS to a lovely house overlooking a gentle valley and river. We were made really welcome and had a very pleasant evening playing with these three local chaps. Once again we returned to our trailer tired, but happy.
A major expedition to climb Clingman's Dome
The Smoky Mountains National Park is all about mountains. It's centrepiece is Clingman's Dome. It rises 6643 feet and is the third highest spot east of the Mississippi. (and then it is only less than 100ft lower than Mount Mitchell, which is the highest). It is the backdrop to Pigeon Forge. As you drive down the massive strip mall, there is Clingman's Dome in the background. Sunday was a beautiful day, with sunshine forecast all day. We decided that this mountain had to be conquered. We drove up in to the Smokies (as they call the park round here). True to the day the sunshine made the countryside look fabulous. Spring flowers were in abundance and everywhere we stopped there was a carpet of flowers, purple violets and white violets, little blue flowers and some little white ones that had fringed petals. Every now and again you could see a much bigger white flower, almost like a lily. Each plant had a single large flower, which was framed by three large leaves. We found that this flower is called Trillium, very pretty.
The road ran alongside a mountain stream, which became narrower and faster as we climbed, until it became one long cascade, tumbling over rocks and through gullies. The road was well made and not too steep, just a long grind uphill. In one place the road actually spiralled round on itself. We stopped at the Newfound Gap to gawp at the awesome views. But as we had further to go, we took the little road off the main highway which led us as high as we could go by car. We found a place to park the car and took with us enough supplies to last the entire trip, our lunch that is. Now we climbed on foot (or motorised chair), following the steep path to the very top. It was about a half mile walk. The air was noticeably thinner, so I did take it very carefully. On reaching the top there is a large concrete viewing platform which rises above the wooded dome, which is accessed up a long sweeping ramp. Sally made it up about halfway before deciding that her fear of heights was more important than the view. She then returned to the base camp back on solid ground. I continued to the very top of the tower. Oh! Oh! Oh! the view was spectacular. In the foreground mountains were all around, with their 'balds', ridges and deep valleys. As the eye swept to the horizon to the north you could see Pigeon Forge, then the high lands away on the other side of the Tennessee river. To the south you could see nothing but mountains away to Springer Mountain in Georgia, which is the start of the Appalachian Trial, which passes within an mile of the Dome. To the East, the Blue Ridge mountains stretched away. The rounded hump of Pisgah Mountain could be seen and alongside it the broader dome of Cold Mountain (which we saw up close in October), which overlook Maggie Valley and Asheville in North Carolina. Then, by looking carefully, I could see faintly on the horizon the long rump of Mount Mitchell, which according to the map is 73 miles away. Today was a clear day. The mountains were definitely blue.
When I returned to the bottom of the tower, Sally was swapping life histories with Hobbit, an Appalachian Trail walker, who had left Springer Mountain some three weeks before (200 miles of walking) and was making good progress towards Katahdin, Maine, a further 1978 miles up the trail. (The name is assumed for the purposes of the trail walk). We walked back down to the car park in the lovely warm afternoon sunshine and then returned to our trailer. What a lovely way to spend Easter Sunday. God's amazing creation in all it's glory.
Since arriving at Pigeon Forge I had been trying to find some Bluegrass music. Well ,using MeetUp on Facebook I found a group in the Knoxville area. One of the people I was in touch with was coming to Pigeon Forge for the weekend, so on Sunday evening Sally and I took our instruments across for the evening and we sat round a camp fire, drank a beer, talked and played until about 10.30. A nice way to end a great day.
The road ran alongside a mountain stream, which became narrower and faster as we climbed, until it became one long cascade, tumbling over rocks and through gullies. The road was well made and not too steep, just a long grind uphill. In one place the road actually spiralled round on itself. We stopped at the Newfound Gap to gawp at the awesome views. But as we had further to go, we took the little road off the main highway which led us as high as we could go by car. We found a place to park the car and took with us enough supplies to last the entire trip, our lunch that is. Now we climbed on foot (or motorised chair), following the steep path to the very top. It was about a half mile walk. The air was noticeably thinner, so I did take it very carefully. On reaching the top there is a large concrete viewing platform which rises above the wooded dome, which is accessed up a long sweeping ramp. Sally made it up about halfway before deciding that her fear of heights was more important than the view. She then returned to the base camp back on solid ground. I continued to the very top of the tower. Oh! Oh! Oh! the view was spectacular. In the foreground mountains were all around, with their 'balds', ridges and deep valleys. As the eye swept to the horizon to the north you could see Pigeon Forge, then the high lands away on the other side of the Tennessee river. To the south you could see nothing but mountains away to Springer Mountain in Georgia, which is the start of the Appalachian Trial, which passes within an mile of the Dome. To the East, the Blue Ridge mountains stretched away. The rounded hump of Pisgah Mountain could be seen and alongside it the broader dome of Cold Mountain (which we saw up close in October), which overlook Maggie Valley and Asheville in North Carolina. Then, by looking carefully, I could see faintly on the horizon the long rump of Mount Mitchell, which according to the map is 73 miles away. Today was a clear day. The mountains were definitely blue.
When I returned to the bottom of the tower, Sally was swapping life histories with Hobbit, an Appalachian Trail walker, who had left Springer Mountain some three weeks before (200 miles of walking) and was making good progress towards Katahdin, Maine, a further 1978 miles up the trail. (The name is assumed for the purposes of the trail walk). We walked back down to the car park in the lovely warm afternoon sunshine and then returned to our trailer. What a lovely way to spend Easter Sunday. God's amazing creation in all it's glory.
Since arriving at Pigeon Forge I had been trying to find some Bluegrass music. Well ,using MeetUp on Facebook I found a group in the Knoxville area. One of the people I was in touch with was coming to Pigeon Forge for the weekend, so on Sunday evening Sally and I took our instruments across for the evening and we sat round a camp fire, drank a beer, talked and played until about 10.30. A nice way to end a great day.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Saturday: Dixie Stampede
Last night we gave in to the glitz of Pigeon Forge and went to Dolly Parton's Dixeland Stampede.
Pigeon Forge does not summon images of 'kiss me quick', amusment arcades and shows. But that is exactly what it is!!! Right in the middle of the Smokie Mountains a resort has grown up of Blackpoolian proportions. One huge Strip Mall alternating motel, crazy golf, restaurant, gift shop, amusement arcade or attraction.
Anyway we decided to go to the Dixe Stampede. We had a great evening, loads of food, a whole (but small) chicken, jacket potato, corn, soup, apple pastry and coffee. All the while we were entertained by horse riding, cattle stampede, buckboard races, and other showmanship.
It was great fun. Unfortunately, no pics were allowed, so we have no evidence of having been apart from memories, oh and a little plastic boot/mug, a flag and a pencil.
Today is Easter Sunday when we remember what Jesus gave for us on the cross. Happy Easter to everyone.
Pigeon Forge does not summon images of 'kiss me quick', amusment arcades and shows. But that is exactly what it is!!! Right in the middle of the Smokie Mountains a resort has grown up of Blackpoolian proportions. One huge Strip Mall alternating motel, crazy golf, restaurant, gift shop, amusement arcade or attraction.
Anyway we decided to go to the Dixe Stampede. We had a great evening, loads of food, a whole (but small) chicken, jacket potato, corn, soup, apple pastry and coffee. All the while we were entertained by horse riding, cattle stampede, buckboard races, and other showmanship.
It was great fun. Unfortunately, no pics were allowed, so we have no evidence of having been apart from memories, oh and a little plastic boot/mug, a flag and a pencil.
Today is Easter Sunday when we remember what Jesus gave for us on the cross. Happy Easter to everyone.
Friday: Another tornado Watch
Friday the weather was miserable and we sat and watched a big storm come through. Hail and tornados were predicted, but did not materialise, just rain and thunder.
In the evening we went to a music session.
I had found this session through MeetUp on facebook, also a Park Ranger had described it to us.
It takes place every Friday evening in The Rocky Branch Community Center, just outside of Townsend. The center has several rooms and a hall.
At about 6.00, people start to arrive and get together in little groups to play. When we arrived we were given a tour of the place then left to join in wherever we wanted.
One room had gospel music, another 'mountain' music, which was open for anyone, from 6 to 90.
In another there was an obviously tight little band playing, with people watching.
One corridor had a group of instrumentalists (mainly), elsewhere there were groups that just sat together and played then moved on.
There were probably about 100 people there altogether. It was an exciting and interesting evening. Sally and I joined in the general 'mountain' music and had a great time, I took a picture of the band.
.
Later I sat in with the instrumentalists, who enjoyed taking music at a great pace. Particularly good were Alabama Jubilee and 'the shorter version' of Orange Blossom Special, which went on for about 10 minutes, getting faster and faster as it was driven by a couple of fiddlers. Excellent (thank you Paul for your coaching on that number).
In the evening we went to a music session.
I had found this session through MeetUp on facebook, also a Park Ranger had described it to us.
It takes place every Friday evening in The Rocky Branch Community Center, just outside of Townsend. The center has several rooms and a hall.
At about 6.00, people start to arrive and get together in little groups to play. When we arrived we were given a tour of the place then left to join in wherever we wanted.
One room had gospel music, another 'mountain' music, which was open for anyone, from 6 to 90.
In another there was an obviously tight little band playing, with people watching.
One corridor had a group of instrumentalists (mainly), elsewhere there were groups that just sat together and played then moved on.
There were probably about 100 people there altogether. It was an exciting and interesting evening. Sally and I joined in the general 'mountain' music and had a great time, I took a picture of the band.
.Later I sat in with the instrumentalists, who enjoyed taking music at a great pace. Particularly good were Alabama Jubilee and 'the shorter version' of Orange Blossom Special, which went on for about 10 minutes, getting faster and faster as it was driven by a couple of fiddlers. Excellent (thank you Paul for your coaching on that number).
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