While Roy and Anne move on to Bozeman (north of here) we are taking a break and doing some laundry as well. We are parked in a nice RV park with big views all around of the surrounding mountains. This gives us an excellent views of the weather which is blowing in from the West. Heavy rain showers mostly, but falling as snow on the high bits. It is also quite windy.
We took a drive into Dillon to finish the washing (only one dryer on the RV Park) and had a cruise round the old town and came across a log cabin that had been moved to the museum, it was very interesting.
Evening produced a quite dramatic sunset, mostly with the sun reflecting off the clouds to the East of us.
Tuesday, September 30, 2014
Day 27: Taking a Breath
Tuesday: 30th Sept.
Today is the day we have said an almost certain last goodbye to our friends and traveling companions Roy and Anne, so this morning I have been reflecting on what has been. We owe them a great deal as they have shown us so much about this country (they have a different set of travel guides), they have been there when perhaps lack of confidence would have dictated going a different route. So what we have seen of the countryside will always have there images built into it as well.
So further reflection brings me to think about just what we have seen when we are surrounded every day by such beauty as here it is easy to become acclimatized to it and neglect to put that into our narrative.
For the last two weeks we have been traveling in the mountains and forests of Eastern Oregon, Central Idaho and Western Montana in some of the wildest and most remote countryside in the United States. Mountain ranges such as the Wallowa, Clearwater, Bitterroot and Beaverhead that give evidence to, but also hide, the story of the making of the Earth itself, Volcanic construction and tectonic upheaval, bursting forth of liquid minerals to create the mineral and metal wealth, the etching grace of glaciers. So remote that most Americans do not know where we are talking about. Mighty rivers such as the Snake River and small rivers like the Powder, Imnaha, Grande Ronde, Lochsa and the Big Hole each with its own story. Land that was only discovered by white men 200 years ago.
It has been our privilege to see some of the most beautiful rivers, valleys and mountain passes in the world. We are disappointed if we do not see wild animals and birds at every turn of the road, a deer or bear, or at every glance out of our trailer windows a stellar jay or squirrel, every time we turn an eye to the sky we look expectantly for an eagle or hawk. Every mile of the roads we traveled have their own story of the making of America by explorers, mountain men, emigrants, gold prospectors, real cowboys and real Indians. Of life and death, hardship and joy for grizzly men, women and children alike who passed across this countryside.
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| We wave a last goodbye |
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| Together on Mount Howard |
So further reflection brings me to think about just what we have seen when we are surrounded every day by such beauty as here it is easy to become acclimatized to it and neglect to put that into our narrative.
For the last two weeks we have been traveling in the mountains and forests of Eastern Oregon, Central Idaho and Western Montana in some of the wildest and most remote countryside in the United States. Mountain ranges such as the Wallowa, Clearwater, Bitterroot and Beaverhead that give evidence to, but also hide, the story of the making of the Earth itself, Volcanic construction and tectonic upheaval, bursting forth of liquid minerals to create the mineral and metal wealth, the etching grace of glaciers. So remote that most Americans do not know where we are talking about. Mighty rivers such as the Snake River and small rivers like the Powder, Imnaha, Grande Ronde, Lochsa and the Big Hole each with its own story. Land that was only discovered by white men 200 years ago.
It has been our privilege to see some of the most beautiful rivers, valleys and mountain passes in the world. We are disappointed if we do not see wild animals and birds at every turn of the road, a deer or bear, or at every glance out of our trailer windows a stellar jay or squirrel, every time we turn an eye to the sky we look expectantly for an eagle or hawk. Every mile of the roads we traveled have their own story of the making of America by explorers, mountain men, emigrants, gold prospectors, real cowboys and real Indians. Of life and death, hardship and joy for grizzly men, women and children alike who passed across this countryside.
Day 26: Big Hole Battlegournd
Monday
Our route today takes us East, away from the Bitterroot Mountains, over three passes to a town called Dillon. The three passes prove not to be too arduous, but provide many wonderful views of the the surrounding areas. For every high pass there are also valleys (deep), the first is the Big Hole River Valley, The Big Hole River is a headwater for the Jefferson River (we camped b the Jefferson River on the last trip at Lewis and Clark Caverns SP).
Along this road is the Big Hole Battleground, which is now a cemetery, preserved as part of the Nez Perce Trail National Park. The battle which took place here was not pleasant (see our Nez Perce Page). Here we found another piece of the puzzle that was the long flight in 1877 of the Nez Perce Indians, under Chief Joseph. Although the weather was beautiful the story here cast a somberness on the landscape. Even the appearance of Prong Horn Antelope could not lift that. While we were here we had lunch with Roy and Anne before moving on to Dillon, across the Big Hole Pas and The Badger Pass.
While climbing the Big Hole Pass we overtook a chap pushing, of all things a penny farthing bike, he presented a fairly strange picture, further enhanced by his pith helmet and small union jack. Yes he is English. Yes he is cycling across America on a penny farthing (though I am sure he is pushing it further than he is riding it). As it was not a good place to stop we did not stop, however Roy and Anne did and took a photo, which I have copied onto our photo gallery.
We duly arrived in Dillon at the Courtyside RV Park where we stayed for two nights, enabling us to catch up on laundry.
Our route today takes us East, away from the Bitterroot Mountains, over three passes to a town called Dillon. The three passes prove not to be too arduous, but provide many wonderful views of the the surrounding areas. For every high pass there are also valleys (deep), the first is the Big Hole River Valley, The Big Hole River is a headwater for the Jefferson River (we camped b the Jefferson River on the last trip at Lewis and Clark Caverns SP).
Along this road is the Big Hole Battleground, which is now a cemetery, preserved as part of the Nez Perce Trail National Park. The battle which took place here was not pleasant (see our Nez Perce Page). Here we found another piece of the puzzle that was the long flight in 1877 of the Nez Perce Indians, under Chief Joseph. Although the weather was beautiful the story here cast a somberness on the landscape. Even the appearance of Prong Horn Antelope could not lift that. While we were here we had lunch with Roy and Anne before moving on to Dillon, across the Big Hole Pas and The Badger Pass.
While climbing the Big Hole Pass we overtook a chap pushing, of all things a penny farthing bike, he presented a fairly strange picture, further enhanced by his pith helmet and small union jack. Yes he is English. Yes he is cycling across America on a penny farthing (though I am sure he is pushing it further than he is riding it). As it was not a good place to stop we did not stop, however Roy and Anne did and took a photo, which I have copied onto our photo gallery.
We duly arrived in Dillon at the Courtyside RV Park where we stayed for two nights, enabling us to catch up on laundry.
Day 25: The Bitterroot Valley
Sunday
Straight forward day today, drive down to Lolo, turn right and follow the Bitterroot Mountain South to Sula. We had a pleasant drive, while Sally took some nice photos of the mountains. Low cloud meant that we could not see the full splendour of the Bitterroot Mountains. These are the range of mountains that Lewis and Clark tried to find a passageway through, but could not, though they ranged south along the Bitterroot River for more than eighty miles trying to find one. On reaching the southern end of the Bitterroot Valley we parked up round the back of the Sula General Store, right next to a pretty little lake.
In the evening I went out with Roy and Anne to have a look at wildlife at sunset, only there wasn't any apart form some white tailed deer. Round the lake and a nearby stream though there were a variety of squirrels, Stellar Jay and evidence of beaver.
Straight forward day today, drive down to Lolo, turn right and follow the Bitterroot Mountain South to Sula. We had a pleasant drive, while Sally took some nice photos of the mountains. Low cloud meant that we could not see the full splendour of the Bitterroot Mountains. These are the range of mountains that Lewis and Clark tried to find a passageway through, but could not, though they ranged south along the Bitterroot River for more than eighty miles trying to find one. On reaching the southern end of the Bitterroot Valley we parked up round the back of the Sula General Store, right next to a pretty little lake.
In the evening I went out with Roy and Anne to have a look at wildlife at sunset, only there wasn't any apart form some white tailed deer. Round the lake and a nearby stream though there were a variety of squirrels, Stellar Jay and evidence of beaver.
Monday, September 29, 2014
Day 24: Lolo Hot Springs
Friday and Saturday
Our next camping stop was at Lolo Hot Springs RV park, where we were able to camp alongside a pleasant little brook. The weather has now changed, which combined with being at 6000ft, means that is colder and we had some rain overnight! The first I think since arriving in the States.
Our next camping stop was at Lolo Hot Springs RV park, where we were able to camp alongside a pleasant little brook. The weather has now changed, which combined with being at 6000ft, means that is colder and we had some rain overnight! The first I think since arriving in the States.
This meant that on Saturday morning we looked forward even more to checking out the delights of the Hot Spring spa pool, at a very reasonable 104 deg F. It was very relaxing and warm.
While we were there we saw an amazing RV - a four season travel trailer mounted on a full size truck. I think it is probably capable of independent camping for about a month in Alaska with those monster fuel and water tanks.
While we were there we saw an amazing RV - a four season travel trailer mounted on a full size truck. I think it is probably capable of independent camping for about a month in Alaska with those monster fuel and water tanks.
Saturday night we had a campfire and made more Smores! We were now rested and ready to move on tomorrow, Sunday.
Day 23; Lochsa River and Lolo Pass
Friday
At Fish Creek it had rained heavily in the night - our first rain since arriving in the States! So the morning by the river was delightfully misty. We left our lovely little camping spot by the river and completed our drive up the Lochsa Valley, Where every turn of the road brings a new and beautiful view of the river and its heavily wooded valley.
where we crossed over into Montana via the Lolo Pass, as coincidentally did Lewis and Clark in late September of 1805 and the Nez Perce Indians in July of 1877. This pass is also the boundary for the Pacific and Mountain time zones, so we had to put our clocks one hour forward. We stopped at the Visitor Center at the top of the pass and watched another video of Lewis and Clark, and also learned more about the Nez Perce Indians, this time with a group of school children, whose favourite question afterwards was ask "how did Lewis and Clark die?"
At Fish Creek it had rained heavily in the night - our first rain since arriving in the States! So the morning by the river was delightfully misty. We left our lovely little camping spot by the river and completed our drive up the Lochsa Valley, Where every turn of the road brings a new and beautiful view of the river and its heavily wooded valley.
where we crossed over into Montana via the Lolo Pass, as coincidentally did Lewis and Clark in late September of 1805 and the Nez Perce Indians in July of 1877. This pass is also the boundary for the Pacific and Mountain time zones, so we had to put our clocks one hour forward. We stopped at the Visitor Center at the top of the pass and watched another video of Lewis and Clark, and also learned more about the Nez Perce Indians, this time with a group of school children, whose favourite question afterwards was ask "how did Lewis and Clark die?"
Day 22: Clear Water and Lochsa Valleys
Thursday
The next leg of our journey follows the Clearwater River and its tributary, the Lochsa River from Lewiston to Missoula. This road is part of both the Lewis and Clark National Trail and the Nez Perce National Trail.
We had lunch near Orofino at Canoe Camp, which was a Nez Perce winter village where the Lewis and Clark Expedition camped in order to recover from their long walk across the Great Divide from the Missouri and to build dugout canoes so that they could then travel down stream to the sea. A very interesting piece of the History Jigsaw of the North West.
Moving East along State Route 12 we called in at the Heart Of The Monster, which is a rock mound (natural) which was sacred to the Nez Perce tribe and has the story of Coyote and The Monster ascribed to it.
As we left the mound behind we moved into the Clearwater National Forest, where we planned to camp in one of the more primitive forest campgrounds, however we were greeted with the signs that the area has an active wild fire, this became obvious as we progressed. The blue haze became thicker until it was almost a fog, then you could see the ash falling around us. At a lot of the pull ins green forest fire trucks were parked, some with crew waiting, or eating. The fire was not far away! The wild fire declaration also meant no stopping along the road, and the first three campgrounds that we could stop at were closed, however about 10 miles further on the smoke cleared and we found a pleasant, but small campground by the river, just perfect!
We set up camp and that just left me enough time to have another go at gold panning in the river, after all, we are only about 20 miles from the spot where gold was first discovered in Idaho in 1860. However no luck, but it was good fun.
Day 21: Hells Gate State Park and Lewiston Overlook
We dropped down from the high plain into Clarkston and Lewiston. A twin city, Clarkston is on the West bank of the Snake River and is in Washington State, Lewiston is on the East Bank of the Snake River and is in Idaho. The twin towns are named after the famous explorers Lewis and Clark as they passed this way in 1805 and again in 1806 when they returned to the East. We found out later that by the time they got here they were in canoes.
We stopped in the Hells Gate SP alongside the Snake River, a campground built by the Corps of Engineer and run by the State Parks of Idaho. We relaxed here for three nights, The park is very well laid out and has Mule Deer roaming freely caught up on shopping and the blog, Roy and Anne did some exploring up the Snake River and Sally went across the Clearwater River and drove up Lewiston Hill and then drove down again on the Old Spiral Road to get a fabulous view of the twin towns and the three rivers.
We stopped in the Hells Gate SP alongside the Snake River, a campground built by the Corps of Engineer and run by the State Parks of Idaho. We relaxed here for three nights, The park is very well laid out and has Mule Deer roaming freely caught up on shopping and the blog, Roy and Anne did some exploring up the Snake River and Sally went across the Clearwater River and drove up Lewiston Hill and then drove down again on the Old Spiral Road to get a fabulous view of the twin towns and the three rivers.
Day 19: Rattlesnake Pass and the Grande Ronde River
Today we set off North again, once more into the wilds of the mountains, this time in search of the Grande Ronde River. Roy had found a picture showing extreme meandering on the river and we wanted to see it for ourselves. Although we could reach the Grande Ronde the bit we wanted to see was not accessible, however the road dropped down over 2000 feet of windy road to the river, where there was a café we could stop at for a cup of tea and a warm cinnamon roll. The river was very peaceful and beautiful. We then climbed out of the canyon like river valley, a 2000ft climb of windy road, before levelling off on a big plateau. This road by the way is called The Rattlesnake Pass and is famous for its twists and turns.
This road led us into the twin towns of Clarkston and Lewiston.
This road led us into the twin towns of Clarkston and Lewiston.
Sunday, September 28, 2014
Day 18 - Joseph Main Street Safari
Sunday
After our strenuous day yesterday we took it very gently and went back to explore Joseph as it has a very interesting main street. The town has a bronze foundry, which has led to a number of art type shops setting up, also the town has acquired a number of bronze statues which are displayed very pleasingly down the main street. We decided to have lunch first and after asking the locals settled on eating at R&R’s, a family diner, in there we met a number of old locals (mostly in their eighties) who were all very friendly. After lunch we walked up and down the main street looking at the bronzes and talking to other locals. In the process I found out that R&R also sell ice cream and they still sell a 25c soft ice cream, well I had to go and try one! We also ran into some really nice folks from the Jordan Valley in southern Oregon, they were real cowboys! So we had a quiet, but fun afternoon in Joseph.
After our strenuous day yesterday we took it very gently and went back to explore Joseph as it has a very interesting main street. The town has a bronze foundry, which has led to a number of art type shops setting up, also the town has acquired a number of bronze statues which are displayed very pleasingly down the main street. We decided to have lunch first and after asking the locals settled on eating at R&R’s, a family diner, in there we met a number of old locals (mostly in their eighties) who were all very friendly. After lunch we walked up and down the main street looking at the bronzes and talking to other locals. In the process I found out that R&R also sell ice cream and they still sell a 25c soft ice cream, well I had to go and try one! We also ran into some really nice folks from the Jordan Valley in southern Oregon, they were real cowboys! So we had a quiet, but fun afternoon in Joseph.
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